5 Speed Tear Down (1 Oct 2011)

Well I decided to tear down my 5 speed...I bought the Solex package engine/tran, but didn't know what car it came out of. If you don't know if the 5 speed has a splinned or welded 5th gear it's worth checking prior to installing in the car.

Guts and Gears (1 Oct 2011)

Even though I have the manual and Scott's book, I made a big drawing of the trans and gears and as I disassembled I marked the pieces on the drawing.

Rolled Pin (1 Oct 2011)

The shifting forks have rolled retaining pins that needs to be driven out.

C Clip (1 Oct 2011)

There are two types of 5 Speed boxes (Servo and Warner) I believe this is a Warner Box as the shifting forks have C Clips on them and there are also brass rings on this unit.

Rod Removal (1 Oct 2011)

Gently tap out the shifting forks.

Shift Rods (1 Oct 2011)

Each shift rod also has check balls inside the carrier.

Rod Allignment (2 Oct 2011)

All three rods line up and form a square that the L shaped stricking rod fits into. This is the middle and bottom rod.

Shift Rod Removal (2 Oct 2011)

Removing the retaining pin from the middle rod.

Check Ball Holders (2 Oct 2011)

Removing the check ball from the middle rod.

Check Ball (2 Oct 2011)

Each of the balls is held against the shifting rods by springs. Each rod has its own large ball...there are also four smaller balls that ride in a slot thru the middle of all three rods.

Shift Rods (2 Oct 2011)

All three shifting forks removed.

Main Carrier (2 Oct 2011)

Removing all of the balls from under the checking plugs.

Snap Rings (2 Oct 2011)

Removing the speedo gear...you need a good set of pliers to open the snap rings and slide them off of the shaft.

Splinned 5th Gear (2 Oct 2011)

The Roadster 4 speed has splinned gears, when Datsun added the 5th gear the original run came with pressed 5th gears...the gear can "slip" and you end up with a 5th speed neutral, also the double nuts above started as single and could back off (lots of problems if that happens).

Splinned 5th (2 Oct 2011)

Better pic of splinned 5th gear.

Lock Nuts (2 Oct 2011)

The double locking nut also has a flat retainer that is bent over the nut to ensure it can't back off.

Broken Breather (3 Oct 2011)

My transmission breather was broken off inside of its hole. I removed the remains and ordered a new one from my local Nissan dealership (part # 38322-78000 $4.17)

Seal Puller (3 Oct 2011)

Removing old seals.

New O Ring (3 Oct 2011)

With the striking rod removed you can tap the inside tube back and install new O rings...there is also one O ring on the outside as shown.

New Rear Seal (3 Oct 2011)

Installing the rear seal.

Complete (3 Oct 2011)

Rear tailhousing is ready to go.

Seal Damage (3 Oct 2011)

I actually tore up the front with the seal removal tool...it has a sharp hook that dug into the throw out bearing support tube. I used my Dremel to polish out the damage.

New Front Seal (3 Oct 2011)

I'm worried that I did this seal wrong...Scott's book says this seal goes FORWARD, but I thought it meant towards me...I can only hope that it wont leak. (IT"S WRONG...SEE BELOW)

Spacer (3 Oct 2011)

There are spacers that ride on the bearing faces. I used the original size as everything measured the same.

Ready to Assemble (4 Oct 2011)

All new bearings and seals...ready to reassemble.

Gaskets (4 Oct 2011)

Place gaskets on both sides of assembly plate.

Shifter Fork (4 Oct 2011)

Slide the front cover over the assembly.

Front Case (4 Oct 2011)

When installing the rear carrier make sure that the striking rod L is inside of the square formed by the shifting rods.

Rear Case (4 Oct 2011)

With both cases aligned bolt the assembly together and tighten to 16 ft lbs (remember the assembly is an aluminum case).

Retaining Ring (4 Oct 2011)

The main drive bearing shims come in various sizes of .0427, .0551, and .0630. Once you know your correct size, snap it into its groove.

Castle Nut (4 Oct 2011)

Tighten Castle nut to 100 -120 ft lbs...(align and install cotter pin).

Clutch Fork (4 Oct 2011)

Slide clutch fork thru bellhousing and grease the large ball that it rides on.

Throwout Bearing (4 Oct 2011)

Grease the slot inside the throw out bearing and install the fork on the bearing.

Shift Bushings (4 Oct 2011)

I bought Delrin bushings from Dean...they are STIFF and were a very tight fit on the shift lever.

Shifter Complete (4 Oct 2011)

The new bushings really tighten up the slop in the stick.

Gear Checks (4 Oct 2011)

Final check...shifted through each gear a few times...(there is only assembly lubricant in the box so I need to take it easy).

Ready to Install (4 Oct 2011)

Ready to Install.

Rad off (5 Oct 2011)

I have ran the rebuilt engine about 6 hours on the stand...to move the drive train to the chassis I had to drain the water...here I removed the radiator.

Ready for seperation (5 Oct 2011)

This is my other 5 speed that was used to mock up and run the engine.

Rear Main Seal (5 Oct 2011)

Since I removed the transmission for the swap...I thought, "let's remove the flywheel and check the rear main" . It looks like evrything is doing great back there as there are no leaks.

New Motor Mounts (5 Oct 2011)

Now that the engine is meeting the chassis I went ahead and installed new motor mounts just so everything is fresh and tight.

Rear Trans Mount (5 Oct 2011)

The 5 speed rear crossmember installs from under the frame...the old Pat Mahoney bolt packs came with new hardware for this area.

Engine on Frame! (5 Oct 2011)

The drive train has met its new home!

Bolted Up (5 Oct 2011)

My 67 daily driver in the background is getting very jealous.

Back in Garage (5 Oct 2011)

Engine install complete...the chassis is rolled back into the garage.

2nd Try (6 Oct 2011)

Well after all the work I thought I put a seal in backwards...I asked the experts on 311s.org and the overall consensus was it was wrong and would leak (read...fix it now).

Yes..it was wrong! (6 Oct 2011)

Since I waited overnight for an answer...I thought; why not open the other 5 speed and find out yourself...well....

Correct Install (6 Oct 2011)

This is the old 5 speed and the seal is correct in this one...FORWARD means towards the front of the bell housing...not toward the shade tree mechanic trying to redo his own transmission (lesson learned).

Fixed (6 Oct 2011)

Easy fix..installed a new seal correctly (cost me a seal and gasket that were purchased for the other 5 speed though).

Been Here Before (6 Oct 2011)

Torqued ten bolts back to 16 ft lbs.

Grease (6 Oct 2011)

Grease the pivot point on the fork.

Throw Out (6 Oct 2011)

Grease inside of throw out bearing and slide in.

Back on Engine (6 Oct 2011)

Back on engine for 2nd and hopefully final time during this resto.

Breather In (6 Oct 2011)

The breather arrived at the Nissan dealership today...install it with the arrow forward.

Heater Boxes (9 Oct 2011)

It's been raining the last few days so I can't roll the body outside to work...I decided at night or bad weather days I will start to get subcomponents ready...here I pulled out 3 heater boxes to build the best one I could.

Heater Core (9 Oct 2011)

This is a great looking core...the foam is still soft and the fins have no damage...next its off to test it for leaks.

Heater Door (9 Oct 2011)

Heater doors...67.5 had a simple heater that blows heat to both sides thru finned doors that swing open with the pull of a cable (this door set opens and closes nicely). The top opening goes to tubes that go up under the dash and work as the defroster.

1st Buffing (11 Oct 2011)

Again, bad weather day...I decided to polish my valve cover...I sanded it and then moved to the buffing wheel.

Hand Polish (11 Oct 2011)

Starting to really shine..

Back on Engine (11 Oct 2011)

This actually looks better in person...its already getting dusty in the garage as I sand the body.

Internal Frame Coating (13 Oct 2011)

Since I'm working on the tub now I decided to use some Eastwood Internal Frame Coating inside all of the areas I can't reach...the product comes with a long hose that sprays in all directions to seal tubes and rails from the inside.

Seeping out (13 Oct 2011)

I sprayed the inside of the door pillar and the stuff came out of all seams...

Frame Rail (13 Oct 2011)

The tubs frame rails inside the engine bay had small holes...the tube actually fit in them and I slide it from front to back and coated the entire rail.

Really Gets In There (13 Oct 2011)

Again, I could tell the product was spreading everywhere as this is the tubs frame rail connection to the firewall...the green stuff is the Eastwood product.

Pass Side Fender Area POR (14 Oct 2011)

Just like the other inner fender area...I stripped the area. then POR 15'd. I will prime, paint the entire underside of the car, undercoat, and then put the body on a small metal dolly for the paint booth.

Clean! (14 Oct 2011)

The underside of the tub is going to really look great, but more importantly it will really be protected from the elements.

Door Braces (14 Oct 2011)

I removed the body without door braces and it's been that way for some time, but as I'm working on the undercarriage to remove tar/undercoating the body moves..to avoid damage I broke out the welder and welded up some braces...these will help when I transfer the tub to the paint dolly as well.

Ugly Weld (14 Oct 2011)

Well I'm no welder as evident by my braces, but I got good penetration and the braces are solid...I just need to go buy new bolts as the hinge bolts aren't long enough to go thru the thick metal I had available.

Working the Drivers Side(17 Oct 2011)

I painted the door braces to prevent rust...here I am stripping the rear drivers panel. So far I have found no Bondo or serious damage anywhere on the car (except under the battery holder).

Dents! (17 Oct 2011)

Finished most of the drivers side (stripped to bare metal)...there are many small dents. The lower ones are pushed out (squares) so that was probably stuff bouncing around in the trunk.

POR 15 Behind Hinge (17 Oct 2011)

Just like the drivers side...I POR 15'd the area under the door hinges then dusted for the next step of sanding and a coat of self etching primer.

Lonely Chassis (21 Oct 2011)

As I work on the body, I'm still committed to painting it off of the chassis and since the motor is already mounted I'm really leaning that way, but I was thinking of doing the underside and engine compartment and then putting the tub on the frame so I can adjust all of the door gaps...then spray the exterior...we'll see!

Stripping the Pass Side (21 Oct 2011)

I started stripping the pass side and I completed the pass side door jam.

Working the Rear Panel (21 Oct 2011)

Almost done stripping the rear panel, again there is no bondo, but there is damage to the rear panel...it looks like it was hit on each side of the license plate area...small dents...should be easy to repair..

Rear Panel Almost Done (27 Oct 2011)

Continued stripping away the layers of paint...I'm trying to be careful around the light holes as there is lots of the original lead in these areas.

Pass Side Almost There (27 Oct 2011)

Almost done with the last of the major paint on the tub (minus the engine bay).

Rocker Panel Stripped (27 Oct 2011)

This is the Pass side rocker all stripped and ready for primer. Notice the lead where the rocker meets the rear quarter panel.

POR 15'd the Rocker (27 Oct 2011)

I stripped the undercoating on the bottom of the rocker and sealed it with POR 15. My plan is to POR 15 the undercarriage, then paint and undercoat. You can see how much work the underside will be (wish I had a rotisserie).

Pass Side Dents (27 Oct 2011)

Just like the drivers side...after I sprayed some self etching primer I marked the obvious damage (need to toughen up the trunk side walls to avoid this type of damage in the future...maybe some Rino Liner).

Trans Tunnel (27 Oct 2011)

This picture was taken from under the car...to gets the body moved to the paint dolly I need to get the underside stripped and painted. I used the heat gun and slowly worked one section...man the undercarriage looks daunting.